Zeroing a .22 rifle, what distance?
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Thread: Zeroing a .22 rifle, what distance?

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    Zeroing a .22 rifle, what distance?

    What is the best distance to zero a .22 rifle at? Specifically a 10/22 with iron sights and an old Remington bolt-action with a scope. Both are dead on at 20 yards, but the bolt-action is shooting high/left at 50 yards. I will be doing mostly plinking with them, with future plans of pimping the 10/22 for FNS.

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    If you're going to use it primarily at FNS, I would probably zero your sights for around 25 yds. When you're target shooting during other range trips, you can take your time and judge wether to hold high or low. At FNS you've got to be quick, so I think you should minimize the number of things you have to think about. Just line up the sights and pull the trigger! I don't know what the average yardage is for the FNS stages, but I'm guessing around 25 yds. Nick would know better than I do I'm sure if you get a hold of him.
    "When you carry a gun, a wacko with a tire iron seems much less scary." -Cru

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    If'n you're gonna shoot squirrels, zero at 60 yards, that will get you within "minute-of-squirrel" between like 25-100 yards.

    Oh, I guess I should've read all of your post...

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    Yeah I'm not a big hunter.

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    Well, then I'd zero in at the range you are going to be shooting.
    Depending on what ammo you are going to shoot, there are ballistic tables to show drop. A standard velocity .22 that is zero'd at 25 meters is about 6" low at 100 yards. (We do this at Appleseeds every time) A Hyper velocity is between 4"-5" low at 100 yards.

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    i always try to zero my scopes on my 22's at 100 then just hold low for everything in closer, and it allows you to run out further if you want to. for iron sights. 50 is probably pretty good. i have never been to fns so i can't really say for there.
    custom kydex solutions. if you need a holster, sheath, or any other kydex work, pm and we can make it happen. some pics of our work below http://s967.photobucket.com/albums/ae158/gruntsoldier2/

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    Thanks for the suggestions. Now to decide what distance to use for zero....

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    I use 25yrds as my zero. I just hold over for various distances out to 100yrds.

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    Hey Frank, I'd suggest nailing down what ammo you're going to use for each rifle/purpose. I get a pretty big deviation between zeros between bulk and my high velocity .22's.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Relic View Post
    I use 25yrds as my zero. I just hold over for various distances out to 100yrds.
    this is what I do also

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    I zero all my .22's at 50 yards.
    "Is life so dear, or peace so sweet, as to be purchased at the price of chains and slavery? Forbid it, Almighty God! I know not what course others may take; but as for me, give me liberty or give me death!"-Patrick Henry

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    Quote Originally Posted by IndySSD View Post
    Hey Frank, I'd suggest nailing down what ammo you're going to use for each rifle/purpose. I get a pretty big deviation between zeros between bulk and my high velocity .22's.
    I've got a brick of Remington .22 Thunderbolt "22 Long Rifle Hi-Speed", a brick of American Eagle high-velocity .22 hollow points, and 200 rounds of Winchester Super-X high-velocity bullets. I was shooting the Thunderbolts the other day from 20 yards and those were dead on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by IndySSD View Post
    Hey Frank, I'd suggest nailing down what ammo you're going to use for each rifle/purpose. I get a pretty big deviation between zeros between bulk and my high velocity .22's.
    Good idea. My Savage MKII is zeroed at 100 yards using sub sonic ammunition. In the rest of my .22's I fire bulk or mini-mags. I have found that mini-mags are the best compromise. They are not as cheap as bulk, but still not that expensive, but I have found them to be more consistent. The best bulk ammo I have found is Federal Champion in the Blue box.
    "Is life so dear, or peace so sweet, as to be purchased at the price of chains and slavery? Forbid it, Almighty God! I know not what course others may take; but as for me, give me liberty or give me death!"-Patrick Henry

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank_N_Stein View Post
    Thanks for the suggestions. Now to decide what distance to use for zero....
    What are the last three things you shot it at that you really cared if you hit them or not?

    How far away were they?

    That said I tend to prefer my dead on zero closer than farther away.

    It's a lot more embarassing to miss an easy cake shot up close where everyone can see with the naked eye what you were aiming for and also that you plainly missed it.
    "The 108-year-old .30-06 Sprg. is without a doubt the king of all-around cartridges.."]


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    My .22s are zeroed for 50 feet basically because of the logic Jack uses. That's why when I got the TLR-2 laser/light for my varmit gun I didn't like it as much because the laser was too far away from the axis of the bore. The Lasermax micro jobby gave me close bore axis which is useful since almost all varmits I engage with the .22lr are in the 25-75' range.
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    Quote Originally Posted by IndySSD View Post
    Hey Frank, I'd suggest nailing down what ammo you're going to use for each rifle/purpose. I get a pretty big deviation between zeros between bulk and my high velocity .22's.
    I used to do that and got tired of trying to keep track of it all. For 90% of the amo I use it's rarely over 4-8 clicks on the scope away from zero any way and I just adjust the zero to what ever is in the gun if I miss one. The scopes I've been using the last several years have adjustable and numbered turrets on them and it's amazing how many times if I miss something I'll take the cap off and dang if the adjustment needed isn't back toward the "zero" on the numbered turret.
    "The 108-year-old .30-06 Sprg. is without a doubt the king of all-around cartridges.."]


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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Ryan View Post
    I used to do that and got tired of trying to keep track of it all. For 90% of the amo I use it's rarely over 4-8 clicks on the scope away from zero any way and I just adjust the zero to what ever is in the gun if I miss one. The scopes I've been using the last several years have adjustable and numbered turrets on them and it's amazing how many times if I miss something I'll take the cap off and dang if the adjustment needed isn't back toward the "zero" on the numbered turret.
    Fair enough.... I zero my M&P15-22 w/aimpoint with one set of ammo (bulk) because that's what I use for plinking / FNS. I zero my squirrel gun with CCI mini mags because that's what I use for hunting squirrels... if I throw mini mags in my 15-22 my POI is like 1-2" higher at 25 yards than it is with bulk using the same POA.


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    Not to thread jack but I have a question regarding this subject. I just bought a Ruger SR-22 and I installed a AR style carry handle with rear sight incorporated in it as well as a flip-up front sight. I also added a red dot on top of the carry handle. I can use either one by just using a different cheek weld. My plan is to zero the iron sights at 100 yards and the red-dot at about 25. I figured that way I will have the quick target acquisition I need for FNS and still be able to shoot at a longer range without changing my set up at all. Does this seem like a good plan?


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    I zero my 10/22 or all my .22 rifles at 82' or 25m. Why? Well when I loan them out at a seed they are ready to go with just a bit of fine tuning. When I get ready to shoo them at 50m/yds I come up 2moa and I am dead on for 100m/yds I come up 4moa from my 25m zero and I am on again. I have tech sights on my loaners or scopes, works just as easy for either.
    Works for my needs well your needs may require something different. But know your zero and your come ups and it really doesn't matter.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suprtek View Post
    Not to thread jack but I have a question regarding this subject. I just bought a Ruger SR-22 and I installed a AR style carry handle with rear sight incorporated in it as well as a flip-up front sight. I also added a red dot on top of the carry handle. I can use either one by just using a different cheek weld. My plan is to zero the iron sights at 100 yards and the red-dot at about 25. I figured that way I will have the quick target acquisition I need for FNS and still be able to shoot at a longer range without changing my set up at all. Does this seem like a good plan?

    I have never seen anyone get a cheek weld with an optic on top of a carry handle. Jaw weld or chin weld, maybe but not a cheek weld. I have seen a guy who ran this type of set up in a carbine match when he got done all his close shots were low due to the sight offset. It would probably work but the optimum set up would be a BUIS and then mount the optic to the rail in front of the rear BUIS. The optic would come close to co witnessing and be easier to mount and get a proper sight picture.
    But it is your rifle if you like it high like that go ahead. It is only wrong if you don't like it.

    I also know a guy who shot his chronograph by forgetting about the sight offset....Uh yes that was me. lol
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudcat View Post
    I have never seen anyone get a cheek weld with an optic on top of a carry handle. Jaw weld or chin weld, maybe but not a cheek weld.
    You're right...poor choice of words on my part.

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    Personally Supr, I would probably ditch the carry handle, run BUIS that co-witness with the red-dot. This would be MY plan of attack, but if you really like the handle, who am I to tell you to ditch it. You have to go with what you like...
    Cru (to A.Prentiss): How do you like brotherbillís Glock 26?
    AP: Itís a little girly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cru View Post
    Personally Supr, I would probably ditch the carry handle, run BUIS that co-witness with the red-dot. This would be MY plan of attack, but if you really like the handle, who am I to tell you to ditch it. You have to go with what you like...
    Hey, I did ask for opinions didn't I? The more I think about it, the more I think you're probably right. I gotta admit I chose the carry handle because I thought it looked cool on the gun, but nothing is cool if you can't hit what you aim at.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Suprtek View Post
    but nothing is cool if you can't hit what you aim at.
    Very VERY true.
    Cru (to A.Prentiss): How do you like brotherbillís Glock 26?
    AP: Itís a little girly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cru View Post
    Personally Supr, I would probably ditch the carry handle, run BUIS that co-witness with the red-dot. This would be MY plan of attack, but if you really like the handle, who am I to tell you to ditch it. You have to go with what you like...
    Quote Originally Posted by Suprtek View Post
    Hey, I did ask for opinions didn't I? The more I think about it, the more I think you're probably right. I gotta admit I chose the carry handle because I thought it looked cool on the gun, but nothing is cool if you can't hit what you aim at.

    I have some flip up irons (zero'd @ 50 yards) for my M&P15-22 and a larue QD for my aimpoint (which is zero'd @ 25yards) and if I need to shoot further than 50 yards I grab another rifle...

    but I agree with Cru, ditch the carry handle and throw on some irons+RDS and add a sling for carry purposes.


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